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Balletwear Design:

Study of the current costume design ballet world & design of a performing balletwear collection

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Politecnico of Milan
Master degree in Design for the Fashion System 
a.a. 2017-2018
Supervisor: Prof. Giovanni Maria Conti

My master thesis is about the design of a performing balletwear collection based on previous studies of three different  themes: the costume design world of Alla Scala Theatre,  the necessities and problems of the dancer's body and  the the new technologies and strategies that could satisfy the previously selected needs.

The dancing body, at the same time so concrete and intangible, has always created a strong charm on me, so that to raise the desire and the interest of studying this theme in a deeper way. In particular what I think to be one of the best example of dance world is the Ballet and the theatre dimension. In this case, a part from the choreography itself, the costumes have a great tradition and importance in the mise en scene of the show. During this master thesis, I’ve tried to approach the role of the ballet Costumes Designer from a more polytechnic point of view.

Thesis, shooting & materials books
Goldberg Variation n.7 - Prototypes presentation

Read the Index, Introduction,

Conclusions & Sources

Part 1: The ballet world

The first part of the research consists on the analysis of the different aspects and roles present in the Teatro alla Scala system, through which I’ve highlighted the presence of a raising interest in the production of “pure movement” ballets, where the body and its relationship with the music are the center of the show. Finding this trend interesting and stimulating, I’ve decided to design something that could enhance and stand out the dancers’ bodies.

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In the second part of the research I’ve focused on the movements, the necessities and the injuries that this particular body has and requires.

Secondly I’ve searched and analyzed the new technologies and strategies that could satisfy the previously selected needs. In particular one solution for the cure of the injuries is the Cyclodextrines technology, applied to the textile and used as a customizable release medium for anti-inflammatory drugs. The second element is the use of compressive materials placed in strategical parts of the body with a specific designed shape, in order to create a support for the body and to improve the physical activity during and after performances and ballet classes.

Part 2: Technical research

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Part 3: The project

The aim of these researches is to design with more consciousness a training and performing collection, specifically for male and female ballet dancers.

The final collection consist of three different kind of clothing: one based on the compression and support idea, one on the cyclodextrins and therapeutic one and the last on the combination of these two technologies.

The last part of the thesis illustrates the process of the creation of a prototype of a female Academic Jumpsuit, realized thanks to the collaboration of the Italian company Deha with the Jersey Lomellina textiles.

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